Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup needs cautious planning and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to select the type of shower that you wish to install. It is necessary to ascertain whether the chosen shower is capable of dealing with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower units nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is also important to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and incredibly simple to set up. However, although the hose connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive option and no additional plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with troublesome temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise need additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. Among the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the different mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit including an effective electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system enables the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob only enables the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this problem is tackled in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head should either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. In addition, the drain system to eliminate the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if a rapid or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to protect the pipes, they ought to be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there ought to be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding maintain optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the supply of water. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or ignoring local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in plumber near Melbourne between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.
# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When best plumbing professionals turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.